Frequently Asked Questions

A repair means fixing a specific component — a solenoid, a sensor, something that failed without requiring us to pull the whole unit apart. A rebuild is different. We pull the transmission out, tear it down to an empty case, and build it back up like new. Every worn part gets replaced, every factory update gets included. When it goes back in, it's built to last — not patched together to get you out the door.

Generally about a week to two weeks. It depends on the vehicle and what we find once we're inside. If you need a more specific window, give us a call and we can give you a better idea once we've had a look.

It depends on what's wrong and what kind of car you have. We've done rebuilds that came in at $2,000 and others closer to $8,000. There's no honest way to give you a number without knowing what you're dealing with. What we can tell you is that our free diagnostic will give you a clear picture — and our quote will cover the full job, no surprises.

That depends on your situation, and we'll give you an honest answer either way.

Here's how we think about it: if your car has been maintained, runs well, and serves your needs — a rebuilt transmission puts you back on the road in the car you already know. The alternative is spending the same money on a car that might have its own problems you don't know about yet.

That said, if the rest of the car is telling a different story, we'll tell you that too. Make the decision based on what you actually need for transportation — not on what you think the car is worth on paper. We don't do pressure sales. If it's not worth fixing, we'll say so.

We stand behind everything we do. We tell you what we're going to do, we do it, and we back it up. Every customer gets invited back for a 10-day follow-up — a quick check to make sure everything is running clean, tight, and right after the work is done. No charge. Just making sure we did what we said we'd do.

For specific warranty terms, give us a call — coverage can vary depending on the job.

Slipping means the transmission isn't holding the gear it's supposed to be in — the engine revs up but the power isn't getting to the wheels the way it should. It can feel like the car hesitates, surges, or just doesn't respond the way it used to.

It doesn't always mean a full rebuild. It could be just low on fluid, or sometimes it's a solenoid, a pressure issue, sometimes something more involved.  The only way to know is to get it looked at. Give us a call — we can often get a pretty good idea of what's happening just from how you describe it.

A hard or banging shift could mean a few different things. It could be a heavy duty unit with a shift kit — that's actually normal for those. Or it could be the clutch packs aren't releasing and engaging the way they should, or there's a pressure problem in the system.

It's not something to ignore. Bring it in — we'll do a free diagnostic and tell you what's actually going on before you decide anything.

Could be, but it's not always a major problem. Sometimes it's as simple as being low on fluid. Other times it does point to the transmission slipping or not engaging the next gear cleanly.

Worth getting looked at either way. Give us a call or come in for a free diagnostic — we'll tell you what you're dealing with.

Not necessarily. A transmission code is a starting point, not a verdict. There are dozens of things that can trigger a transmission-related code — a solenoid, a sensor, a pressure issue, even an engine misfire. The code tells you something is off. It doesn't tell you what.

We see a lot of cars come in after someone read a code and assumed the worst. Sometimes it's a simple fix. Sometimes it's more involved. But you won't know until someone actually looks at the transmission — not just reads a code.

Free diagnostic. Come in and find out what you're actually dealing with. Call 503-626-4619.

A free 15–20 minute inspection where we figure out what's actually going on with your transmission. In some cases we can give you a solid idea right over the phone — just describe what the car is doing and we'll tell you what we think. When it needs a closer look, come in and we'll get you an answer without charging you just to look at it.

If you decide to have us do the work, great. If you don't, that's okay too. We figure if we want your business, the least we can do is tell you what you're up against first.

Dealers usually have one option: replace your transmission with the same stock unit that failed. At Tim's AATCO Transmissions, you have more choices.

If a repair will handle it, we fix what's needed without a full rebuild. If a rebuild is required, we tear it down completely and install proven upgrades that often make your transmission stronger than it came from the factory. And in almost every case, we do it for thousands less than the dealer quote.

We've been doing this since 1989. We know these transmissions, and we'll tell you straight what yours actually needs.

The quote we give you is the quote you pay. We don't add to the job without calling you first.

The one exception: sometimes when we're already in there, we find something related that makes sense to address while everything is apart — a failing mount, a worn bracket, something that would cost more to fix as a separate job later. When that happens, we call you, explain what we found, and you decide. Nothing gets added without that conversation.

Often, yes. Dealers tend to have one answer: replace it. We start by finding out what's actually wrong.

In a lot of cases — especially with certain makes and models — what gets diagnosed as a full replacement is actually a repair. A solenoid, a valve body issue, something specific that doesn't require tearing the whole unit apart. We've repaired hundreds of transmissions that were told they needed to be replaced.

It's not always the case. Sometimes a rebuild or replacement really is the right call. But it's worth knowing before you commit to a dealer quote. Our diagnostic is free — come in and find out what you're actually dealing with.

You can call ahead or just bring it in — either works. If you call first, we can give you a sense of our current schedule and sometimes help you figure out over the phone whether it's urgent or can wait a few days. Walk-ins are welcome. We'll get you into the diagnostic queue and tell you what we're looking at as soon as we can.

Hours are Monday through Friday, 8 to 5. Best to avoid noon to 1 — that's lunch. Call us at 503-626-4619.

We can often give you a solid ballpark right over the phone — just describe what the car is doing, when it happens, and how long it's been going on. We've been doing this long enough that the symptoms usually paint a pretty clear picture.

If the situation is straightforward, we'll tell you what we think and what it would likely cost. If it's not clear enough to give you a reliable number, we'll tell you that too and get you in for a free 15-20 minute diagnostic. We'd rather give you an honest "we need to see it" than a number we can't stand behind.

A slipping clutch means it's not fully engaging — the engine is revving but the power isn't transferring the way it should. It usually means the clutch disc is worn and needs to be replaced. Catching it early is worth it. A slipping clutch that keeps getting used tends to wear faster and can take other components with it.

Give us a call — we'll tell you what you're likely dealing with and what it would take to fix it.

Most clutch replacements take one to two days depending on the vehicle. Some makes and models are more involved than others. Call us with your year, make, and model and we can give you a more specific timeframe.

We're typically more affordable than a dealer, and the work is done right — quality parts, proper installation. The exact cost depends on your vehicle. Give us a call and we'll give you an honest number once we know what we're working with.

It could be. The transfer case is what routes power to your front and rear axles when you shift into four-wheel drive. When it's not engaging right — or you're hearing a clunk when you switch between 2WD and 4WD — the transfer case is a likely place to start.

We work on transfer cases and differentials, not just transmissions. If something feels off, bring it in and we'll figure out what's going on.

We work on transmissions, clutches, transfer cases, and differentials — automatic, manual, foreign, and domestic. If your drivetrain has a problem, chances are we can help. Give us a call and we'll let you know.

A clunk when you engage four-wheel drive is usually coming from the transfer case or the front driveshaft. When the transfer case shifts, it's connecting the front and rear axles — if something isn't engaging smoothly, you'll feel or hear it. It can also be a worn U-joint in the driveshaft.

It's worth getting looked at before it becomes something bigger. Bring it in and we'll figure out where it's coming from.

They're both part of how power gets to your wheels, but they do different things.

The transfer case is what splits power between your front and rear axles in a four-wheel drive vehicle. When you shift into 4WD, the transfer case is what makes that happen.

The differential is at each axle — front and rear — and it allows the wheels on the same axle to spin at different speeds when you're turning. Without it, your tires would scrub and skip through every corner.

If either one is making noise, slipping, or acting up, bring it in. We work on both.

It could be a few things. The AWD system involves the transfer case, differentials, wheel speed sensors, and sometimes the transmission itself. When the light comes on, it means the system detected something it doesn't like — but the code will tell us where to look.

It's not always a transmission problem. Sometimes it's a sensor. Sometimes it's the transfer case. Sometimes it's something in the AWD control system. We'll pull the code, look at what it's pointing to, and tell you what you're actually dealing with. Free diagnostic. Call 503-626-4619.

Yes — and it's something we genuinely enjoy doing. When we build a transmission for a truck that tows, we use quality components designed to handle the extra heat and load that towing puts on a transmission. We don't triple the markup on performance parts like a lot of shops. We price it fairly because the goal is a truck that holds up — and a customer who doesn't come back with the same problem.

Towing puts real stress on a transmission — more heat, heavier load, harder shifts. If you're towing regularly and haven't had your transmission looked at recently, it's worth knowing where things stand. Catching a problem early on a tow vehicle is a lot less expensive than dealing with it on the side of the road.

If you've been towing heavy and something feels different — a slip, a shudder, anything that wasn't there before — give us a call. We can often help you figure out what you're dealing with right over the phone.

A heavy duty build means we use upgraded components — stronger clutch packs, better internals — designed to handle more load and heat than a stock transmission. The result is a transmission built for how you actually use your truck, not just how the factory assumed you would.

Whether you need one depends on what you're doing. If you're towing heavy, running a lot of horsepower, or you've already had transmission problems under load — it's worth considering. If you're doing normal daily driving, a standard quality rebuild will serve you well.

We'll tell you honestly which one makes sense for your situation.

Yes. We rebuild 10-speed transmissions, and we do it for thousands of dollars less than a dealer replacement — with quality that we believe is at least as good, and often better.

The 10-speed has known issues. When we rebuild one, we do the updates that address the root cause — so you're not dealing with the same problem again down the road. If you've got a dealer quote, it's worth a second look before you commit.

It may be true — but it's not necessarily true. We've repaired hundreds of Subaru CVTs that were told they needed a full replacement. In more cases than not, we're repairing them, not replacing them.

There are things that can go wrong with a Subaru CVT that don't require a rebuild — and there are things that do. We check them out for free. Come in and find out what yours actually needs before you spend the money on a dealer's answer.

It's real, and we do it regularly. A faulty lockup solenoid is a common issue on Subaru CVTs — and it's something a lot of shops miss or don't bother with because the rebuild is a bigger ticket.

We charge $1,200 to replace the lockup solenoid, and we fix a lot of them that way. There's also a second solenoid nearby that tends to fail — sometimes we'll recommend replacing it at the same time since we're already there, but we leave that decision up to you.

Not every Subaru CVT is going to be a $1,200 fix. Some do need more. But it's absolutely worth finding out before you spend $8,000 on a new transmission. Our diagnostic is free.

Probably. The 6-speed transmission in those trucks has a history of issues — harsh shifts, shuddering, late engagement. It's a known problem and a lot of those trucks come through here.

Here's the thing: when you rebuild one of those transmissions with the right updates, it's actually a solid unit. The updates address what was wrong from the factory. Skip them and you'll end up in the same place again. We do the updates every time. That's the difference between a rebuild that holds and one that doesn't.

Get a second opinion before you go to the dealer. Free diagnostic. Call 503-626-4619.

The 62TE transmission in the Promaster has some specific issues that most shops aren't familiar with. The rebuild itself is straightforward if you know what you're doing — but there are mounting points and brackets that tend to fail alongside the transmission, and if you don't catch them while you're already in there, you can end up with a cracked case or worse down the road.

We've seen enough of them to know exactly what to look for. Bring it in and we'll give you an honest assessment of what's going on and what it would take to fix it right.

Often, yes. We work on Nissan CVTs and in a lot of cases we can repair or rebuild them for significantly less than a dealer replacement. The dealer's default answer is to put in a new unit — which is the most expensive option. We start by figuring out what's actually wrong.

Not every Nissan CVT is repairable. Some need a full replacement. But it's worth knowing what you're dealing with before you write a check for $6,000. Free diagnostic. Call 503-626-4619.

Yes — and it's something we enjoy doing. Diesel trucks put a lot of torque through the transmission, especially if you're towing or if the engine has been modified. A stock rebuild will handle normal use, but if you're running more power or towing heavy, a heavy duty build with upgraded components makes a real difference.

We build diesel transmissions with quality parts, honest markup, and a goal of making sure you don't come back with the same problem. Call us and tell us what you're working with — we'll tell you what makes sense for how you use the truck.